lendama õppime
Moderator: Kristjan
lendama õppime
Kui kaua ma peaks ennem simu peal harjutama, kui oleks hea mõte minna ka päris kopterit lennutama? või kui aeg polegi kõige tähtsam, siis mida ma simus pean vaatama? selles mõttes, et kui hästi mul seal välja tuleb jne.
Ise oskasin RF G3-s kopteriga vabalt lennata enne, kui päris kopteriga õhku tõusin. Võta eesmärgiks näiteks teha 10 lendu ja maandumist nii, et kopter katki ei lähe. Siis lisa tuult ja turbulentse - tee oma elu keerulisemaks! Ja siis proovi 20 lendu teha nii, et kopter katki ei lähe. Kui simus on asi ikka VÄGA käpas, siis saab ka päris-elus hakkama.
Muideks simus 0 tuulega lendamine on päris petlik, päriselt on neid häirivaid looduslikke tegureid ikka palju + kopter ei ole kunagi nii stabiilne nagu simus.
Muideks simus 0 tuulega lendamine on päris petlik, päriselt on neid häirivaid looduslikke tegureid ikka palju + kopter ei ole kunagi nii stabiilne nagu simus.
Lauri Laidna - www.pistik.com
Olles ise ka alles poolel teel kopteri taltsutamisel on lisaks Lauri õigetele soovitustele lisada, et kui asi simus juba mingil tasemel käpas võiks turvalises keskkonnas (tuult ei ole, taksitusi ei ole, maapind sile, treeningtelik all) ka pärsikopterit veidi hüpitada, korraks üles, mõni sekund lendu ja tagasi maha. Simu ja päriskopteri vaheldumisi harjutamine veidi kiirendab õppimist. Olles veidi pärsikopterit hüpitanud on värskem ja nõudlikum tunne jälle simu taha istuda.
Kõige tähtsam on pärsikopteriga mitte liiga julgeks minna. Päriskopteriga mitte midagi sellis teha mis simus pole umbes 10-l järjestikulisel katsel puhtalt välja tulnud. Seda viimast tõde tuletas mulle teravalt meelde kopteri puruks sõitmine esimesel lennukatsel.
Kõige tähtsam on pärsikopteriga mitte liiga julgeks minna. Päriskopteriga mitte midagi sellis teha mis simus pole umbes 10-l järjestikulisel katsel puhtalt välja tulnud. Seda viimast tõde tuletas mulle teravalt meelde kopteri puruks sõitmine esimesel lennukatsel.
Näiteks selline asi: http://www.rcmarket.org/Micro-Heli-trai ... 16336.html
või selline:
http://www.rcmarket.org/Carbon-Training ... 15559.html
Teeb kopteri laiemaks, ja ei lase nii kergelt külili kukkuda, kui maandumine või õhkutõusmine ei õnnestu veel päris hästi.
Edit: Ma raptorile panin kaks murdunud fiibrist suusakeppi risti ja tennispallid otsa. Ajab ka asja ära.
või selline:
http://www.rcmarket.org/Carbon-Training ... 15559.html
Teeb kopteri laiemaks, ja ei lase nii kergelt külili kukkuda, kui maandumine või õhkutõusmine ei õnnestu veel päris hästi.
Edit: Ma raptorile panin kaks murdunud fiibrist suusakeppi risti ja tennispallid otsa. Ajab ka asja ära.
Nagu juba öeldud, aitab treeningtelik kopteril püsti püsida. Treeningteliku otstesse pannakse ka pallid (näiteks ping-pongi pallid väikese kopteri puhul) ja see hõlbustab kopteri nägemist! See on väga-väga abiks. 4 palli abil näed kohe ära, kui kopter hakkab õhus mingis suunas kalduma.
Siin pildil söetorust ise tehtud treeningtelik, otstes pingpongi pallid. Kokku kaalub ehk paarkümmend grammi.
Siin pildil söetorust ise tehtud treeningtelik, otstes pingpongi pallid. Kokku kaalub ehk paarkümmend grammi.
Lauri Laidna - www.pistik.com
Kui puit on elastne siis sobib ka tavaline puit. Näiteks pajuvits või kadakas. Puit on kindlasti raskem tehismaterjalidest.
Treeningteliku mõte on kopterit kaitsta tõusul ja maandumisel ümber minekust ja ka maandumise pehmendamine. Selles mõttes on hea kui treeningteliku jalused on pandud nii, et nad pehmendaksid maandumise lööki. Algajale, nagu ka mina olen, valmistab raskusi ka igakordne sujuv maandumine. Omast käest kogenud, kuidas vahel kopter tuule või miski muu häire mõjul lihtsalt enne maandumist kukub läbi. Tunnistan, et tõenäoliselt pole ka tõsusu ja mootori pöörete mixid veel päris paigas.
Kas plaanid või juba omad miskit kopterit?
Treeningteliku mõte on kopterit kaitsta tõusul ja maandumisel ümber minekust ja ka maandumise pehmendamine. Selles mõttes on hea kui treeningteliku jalused on pandud nii, et nad pehmendaksid maandumise lööki. Algajale, nagu ka mina olen, valmistab raskusi ka igakordne sujuv maandumine. Omast käest kogenud, kuidas vahel kopter tuule või miski muu häire mõjul lihtsalt enne maandumist kukub läbi. Tunnistan, et tõenäoliselt pole ka tõsusu ja mootori pöörete mixid veel päris paigas.
Kas plaanid või juba omad miskit kopterit?
Mnjah, kogenud piloodi leidmisega on raskusi. Suure tõenäosusega tuleb ise kõik valu, vaev ja rõõm läbi elada. Kuid see pole lootusetu. Kui vähegi tehnilist taipu ja mis kõige olulisem tahtmist ja püsivust eesmärgini jõuda siis varem või hiljem taltsutab selle kopteri täiesti käppa.
Olles ka ise alles kolmandat kuud kopteri omanik ja läbi elanud juba kaks kopteriga puusse sõitmist on mul sünnivalu raskus liigagi hästi meeles.
Seega jagan hea meelega oma kogemust. Küsi aga julgelt. Kui oskan siis ka vastan.
Olles ka ise alles kolmandat kuud kopteri omanik ja läbi elanud juba kaks kopteriga puusse sõitmist on mul sünnivalu raskus liigagi hästi meeles.
Seega jagan hea meelega oma kogemust. Küsi aga julgelt. Kui oskan siis ka vastan.
mis riistatega ja mismoodi ja mida ma peaks timmima ja või vaatama, kas on korralikult timmitud?
kellegi leidmine, kes elus kordagi lennanud kopteriga, veel vähem sellest midagi teab, on minu kandis väga raske leida. eks tuleb hakkata ikka ise kõigega vaikselt peale.
siiamaani olen ma saanud paljude asjade ise hakkama, millega alustades tuleks ennem rääkida profiga (mitte mudelismindus)
kellegi leidmine, kes elus kordagi lennanud kopteriga, veel vähem sellest midagi teab, on minu kandis väga raske leida. eks tuleb hakkata ikka ise kõigega vaikselt peale.
siiamaani olen ma saanud paljude asjade ise hakkama, millega alustades tuleks ennem rääkida profiga (mitte mudelismindus)
sain endale ühe õpetaja/juhendaja. Eks siis anna teada kui mingeid probleeme veel on!
keegi küsis kopteri kohta: http://www.conrad.de/script/rc_e_helikopter.sap
keegi küsis kopteri kohta: http://www.conrad.de/script/rc_e_helikopter.sap
Kogenud piloote on siin foorumiski jalaga segada... (=piisavalt) Mina, Kristjan ja usun, et paar-kolm muud tegelast Tallinna lähedal, aga leiab ka mujalt.
Seega, esmalennutussoovist tasub aga julgesti märku anda ja lepime Keilas, Piibel vms. lennutusaja kokku...
PS. Tõsi, mida parem raadio on ostetud seda kergemalt abi saab. JR ja Futaba raadiote tipp- ja kesktaseme mudelite omanikele on märksa mugavam tuge jagada kui mingi tundmatu-vähelevinud puldi kasutajale, sest lihtsalt pole nendega kokkupuudet ja seega palju asju vajavad manuali lehitsemist ehk lisaaega...
Terv,
I.
Seega, esmalennutussoovist tasub aga julgesti märku anda ja lepime Keilas, Piibel vms. lennutusaja kokku...
PS. Tõsi, mida parem raadio on ostetud seda kergemalt abi saab. JR ja Futaba raadiote tipp- ja kesktaseme mudelite omanikele on märksa mugavam tuge jagada kui mingi tundmatu-vähelevinud puldi kasutajale, sest lihtsalt pole nendega kokkupuudet ja seega palju asju vajavad manuali lehitsemist ehk lisaaega...
Terv,
I.
Arvan,et odavam tuleb see üks sõit teha Tallinna,et kokku saada mõne kogenud lendajaga,kuna lend ilma kogemusteta ja uue reguleerimata lennuaparaadiga lõpeb kindlalt uue kopteri ostmisega.Muide,kohe tuleb hea võimalus Viljandis,vt.http://forum.pistik.com/viewtopic.php?t=905 ,kindlasti leiab seltskonnast kellegi,kes valdab teeemat ja aitab aparaadi õhku tõsta.Ise ei ole küll helikopteritega tegelenud,kuid lennukitega sai omal ajal alustatud üksi ja tõelisest nullist - tulemus oli väga nukker - sai hoolega tükke korjatud.Hull on asja juures see,et allakukkumine tuleb nii ootamatult,et ei suuda isegi analüüsida,mis juhtus ja miks nii läks.Seega soovitus - esimene kord ära üksi siiski põllule mine.
Minu väike kogemus ütleb, et vahetult maa kontakti kadumisel ja mõni sekund peale seda võib kopteri saba veidi tõmmelda või pöörelda kuid õhus olles peab saba püsima paigal. Kui õhus saba ei püsi siis
kui saba pöörleb siis tuleb vastavalt vajadusele pikendada või lühendada sabalingi,
kui saba "liputab" siis tule muuta güro tundlikust.
kui saba pöörleb siis tuleb vastavalt vajadusele pikendada või lühendada sabalingi,
kui saba "liputab" siis tule muuta güro tundlikust.
mina enda omal igatahes gürot ei leidnud... (kui ta just mingi imepisike ja eriti ära peidetud pole). igatahes, kui proovin lendu tõusta vaikselt, siis tagumine tiivik käib nii kiiresti, et ta tõukab lihtsalt asja ümber. Ma õhku pole julgenud veel tõusta ja ei oska öelda, kas ta õhus tõmbaks ennast nats sirgemaks.AndrusT wrote:Minu väike kogemus ütleb, et vahetult maa kontakti kadumisel ja mõni sekund peale seda võib kopteri saba veidi tõmmelda või pöörelda kuid õhus olles peab saba püsima paigal. Kui õhus saba ei püsi siis
kui saba pöörleb siis tuleb vastavalt vajadusele pikendada või lühendada sabalingi,
kui saba "liputab" siis tule muuta güro tundlikust.
Mis asi/kuidas toimub sabalingi lühendamine/pikendamine?
taga on eraldi väike mootor.
mingit sellist teksti mul on:
Setup:
After removing the heli from the box, straighten the main rotor blades so they're at right angles to the smaller blades.
Insert the battery in the battery cage with the connector towards the front of the heli. (Don't connect them yet.)
Wrap a rubber band around the posts to keep the battery cage closed.
Slide the battery towards the front of the heli, moving the rubber sleeves to keep the cage where you want it.
Rotate the main blades so that they're at right angles to the tail boom, like an airplane.
Lift the heli by the flybar, where the blades meet the shaft, and check the balance of the heli.
As you lift and set down the heli, see whether the front of the skids or the back touch first.
Move the battery so the front of the skids touch at the same time as the back.
Now the center of gravity (the CG) is under the main rotor.
Install 8 AA batteries in the transmitter.
The stock 8.4v batteries should charge for about 2 hours. (According to my manual. You may have a different heli than I do, check your docs.) I set a timer to remind me to check them every 30 minutes to see if they're hot. If hot, I stop charging. The first time you charge the batteries I'd check them more often.
I'm told the antenna can stay wrapped around the skid.
About the Transmitter
The transmitter has two silver toggle switches on its face at the top corners. They have no function. Next to the right toggle is a black pushbutton, which also has no function. On the back is a set of 8 small DIP switches. The first four determine the polarity of the servos, the other four are unused. There is a jack that looks like it might be for an external antenna, but its use is unknown. There is a jack for an AC adapter, but its use is not recommended. I have an email from another Dragonfly owner who has measured the voltage at the jack, he writes that it's 12v, positive tip, drawing about 430mA, but the batteries are NOT disconnected from the circuit when the jack is employed, preventing use of an AC adapter while regular batteries are installed. This jack is probably meant to be used with rechargable batteries. The "bar graph" on the transmitter seems to indicate battery power. As the batteries lose charge, the bars decrease from right to left.
There is a silver eyelet between the joysticks so you can attach the transmitter to a neckstrap, recommended to keep from dropping the radio.
The DIP switches should all be set to Off (left) except for 1, 3 and 4. (Note that this corresponds to the Inverted setting in the Control setup in the simulator. The switch settings are the same for both Mode 1 and Mode 2.)
DIP 1 Tail Rotor
DIP 2 Left / Right
DIP 3 Forward / Back
DIP 4 Throttle
About the Simulator
Install the free FMS simulator and the PPJoy joystick emulator that lets you use the Dragonfly transmitter and simulator cable to fly the heli in FMS. If the file from your vendor installed a Dragonfly.par file in FMS, use that, otherwise use the Threedee.par file that comes with FMS.
In the simulator, you need to select Controls, then Analog control, choose the Joystick interface and click on Mapping / Calibration. For both Mode 1 and Mode 2 operation, the eight values down the left should be 4, 2, 3, 1, 4, 2, 3, 1. The Tail, Roll and Pitch should have a checkmark in the Inverted column. Then you can click Calibrate and calibrate the range and the centers of the joysticks.
About PPJoy
PPJoy is a joystick emulator for Windows. It was originally designed to use the parallel port as the joystick interface, and can now use other ports to emulate the parallel port. To use PPJoy with the Dragonfly, run the "Configure Joysticks" wizard and add a new controller. Set the Parallel port to "Virtual port" and let Windows add the drivers. Then run PPJoyCOM and set the Joystick device to the Virtual joystick. Select the Serial port your transmitter is connected to, and set the Serial protocol to Zhen Hua 5 byte protocol. When you turn on the transmitter, PPJoyCOM should say "Reading serial stream" and PPJoyCOM should be left running until you close the simulator. PPJoyCOM is what's making the transmitter, connected to your serial port, look like joysticks to FMS.
Flying the Helicopter
I'm just a beginner myself, so you should consult other web pages, and preferably an experienced flyer in your area who can help you. My recommendation is to practice on the simulator first. Learn to control the heli flying tail-in first (with the tail towards you). Then practice head-in, and then side-in. A flying helicopter has sharp blades rotating at high speed, you want to be able to control it when you fly the real thing. You'll be glad you practiced on the simulator when your heli comes at you with its whirling blades of death and you're able to send it away. Stand at a safe distance when flying, at least six feet away.
Flying is not like driving. There is no road to anchor the heli in position. Once you start it in a given direction, it will keep going in that direction until you tilt it in the other direction. It's like rolling a ball, you send it off one way and then you push it the other way to slow or stop it. It will be a constant series of corrections to keep it hovering in place. Learning to hover is your first goal. Once you can keep it hovering in place, from all perspectives (not just tail-in), then you can learn forward flight.
After practicing on the simulator, when I began flying the Dragonfly I started by giving the heli just enough power to be light on its skids, and learning to keep it in place. I also learned that if you give it just a little more power, it will want to either skitter to the left, or tip over to the right. It doesn't fly well at ground level, so when you're ready to fly it, you need to give it enough thrust to get it more than a foot in the air. If anything goes wrong, bring it down. Practice in short hops, going up and coming down until you can control it better. After flying, adjust the trim to keep it from going in any direction when the sticks are centered. The better trimmed it is, the easier it will be to fly. Fly at your own risk.
When I first started flying the heli was like a marble in a bowl. It would go down to the left and I'd correct it, and it would go up to the left in a big curve, like it was rolling up a bowl. When it hit the top of the curve, it would come down in the other direction like a marble rolling back down the bowl. I learned to correct the motion so that the top of the curve would come faster, and to level out when it hit the top of the curve so it wouldn't come rolling back down. Little corrections done quickly work better than big corrections done slowly.
Vibration
A common problem with RC helicopters is vibration. Excessive vibration makes hovering more difficult, uses up power, causes "gyro drift" and increases wear and tear. Several things can cause vibration, which makes it difficult to identify its source. Further information on this topic can be found in the Electric Helicopter Beginner's Guide. Below are some of the possible causes:
Unbalanced rotor blades. The blades should be balanced, often done with tape.
Crooked rotor blades. The blades should be at right angles to the flybar.
Rotor blades aren't tracking. They should both travel in the same plane. See Blade Tracking in the EHBG.
Rotor blades too tight. If the blades are too tight, they can't self-adjust from centrifugal force.
Rotor blades are too loose. See the EHBG's Adjusting the blade grip bolts for these two problems.
Main gear missing teeth.
Flybar paddles misaligned. The paddles should be nearly parallel to the swashplate, preferably +5 degrees. See EHBG's Flybar paddle setup.
More information on balancing the blades can be found here.
Make sure the rods from the skids are fully seated and the rubber sleeves snugged up to keep them from shifting. I added a rubber band to mine to keep the skids snug.
http://ehbg.rchomepage.com/ <-- siit ka midagi.
mingit sellist teksti mul on:
Setup:
After removing the heli from the box, straighten the main rotor blades so they're at right angles to the smaller blades.
Insert the battery in the battery cage with the connector towards the front of the heli. (Don't connect them yet.)
Wrap a rubber band around the posts to keep the battery cage closed.
Slide the battery towards the front of the heli, moving the rubber sleeves to keep the cage where you want it.
Rotate the main blades so that they're at right angles to the tail boom, like an airplane.
Lift the heli by the flybar, where the blades meet the shaft, and check the balance of the heli.
As you lift and set down the heli, see whether the front of the skids or the back touch first.
Move the battery so the front of the skids touch at the same time as the back.
Now the center of gravity (the CG) is under the main rotor.
Install 8 AA batteries in the transmitter.
The stock 8.4v batteries should charge for about 2 hours. (According to my manual. You may have a different heli than I do, check your docs.) I set a timer to remind me to check them every 30 minutes to see if they're hot. If hot, I stop charging. The first time you charge the batteries I'd check them more often.
I'm told the antenna can stay wrapped around the skid.
About the Transmitter
The transmitter has two silver toggle switches on its face at the top corners. They have no function. Next to the right toggle is a black pushbutton, which also has no function. On the back is a set of 8 small DIP switches. The first four determine the polarity of the servos, the other four are unused. There is a jack that looks like it might be for an external antenna, but its use is unknown. There is a jack for an AC adapter, but its use is not recommended. I have an email from another Dragonfly owner who has measured the voltage at the jack, he writes that it's 12v, positive tip, drawing about 430mA, but the batteries are NOT disconnected from the circuit when the jack is employed, preventing use of an AC adapter while regular batteries are installed. This jack is probably meant to be used with rechargable batteries. The "bar graph" on the transmitter seems to indicate battery power. As the batteries lose charge, the bars decrease from right to left.
There is a silver eyelet between the joysticks so you can attach the transmitter to a neckstrap, recommended to keep from dropping the radio.
The DIP switches should all be set to Off (left) except for 1, 3 and 4. (Note that this corresponds to the Inverted setting in the Control setup in the simulator. The switch settings are the same for both Mode 1 and Mode 2.)
DIP 1 Tail Rotor
DIP 2 Left / Right
DIP 3 Forward / Back
DIP 4 Throttle
About the Simulator
Install the free FMS simulator and the PPJoy joystick emulator that lets you use the Dragonfly transmitter and simulator cable to fly the heli in FMS. If the file from your vendor installed a Dragonfly.par file in FMS, use that, otherwise use the Threedee.par file that comes with FMS.
In the simulator, you need to select Controls, then Analog control, choose the Joystick interface and click on Mapping / Calibration. For both Mode 1 and Mode 2 operation, the eight values down the left should be 4, 2, 3, 1, 4, 2, 3, 1. The Tail, Roll and Pitch should have a checkmark in the Inverted column. Then you can click Calibrate and calibrate the range and the centers of the joysticks.
About PPJoy
PPJoy is a joystick emulator for Windows. It was originally designed to use the parallel port as the joystick interface, and can now use other ports to emulate the parallel port. To use PPJoy with the Dragonfly, run the "Configure Joysticks" wizard and add a new controller. Set the Parallel port to "Virtual port" and let Windows add the drivers. Then run PPJoyCOM and set the Joystick device to the Virtual joystick. Select the Serial port your transmitter is connected to, and set the Serial protocol to Zhen Hua 5 byte protocol. When you turn on the transmitter, PPJoyCOM should say "Reading serial stream" and PPJoyCOM should be left running until you close the simulator. PPJoyCOM is what's making the transmitter, connected to your serial port, look like joysticks to FMS.
Flying the Helicopter
I'm just a beginner myself, so you should consult other web pages, and preferably an experienced flyer in your area who can help you. My recommendation is to practice on the simulator first. Learn to control the heli flying tail-in first (with the tail towards you). Then practice head-in, and then side-in. A flying helicopter has sharp blades rotating at high speed, you want to be able to control it when you fly the real thing. You'll be glad you practiced on the simulator when your heli comes at you with its whirling blades of death and you're able to send it away. Stand at a safe distance when flying, at least six feet away.
Flying is not like driving. There is no road to anchor the heli in position. Once you start it in a given direction, it will keep going in that direction until you tilt it in the other direction. It's like rolling a ball, you send it off one way and then you push it the other way to slow or stop it. It will be a constant series of corrections to keep it hovering in place. Learning to hover is your first goal. Once you can keep it hovering in place, from all perspectives (not just tail-in), then you can learn forward flight.
After practicing on the simulator, when I began flying the Dragonfly I started by giving the heli just enough power to be light on its skids, and learning to keep it in place. I also learned that if you give it just a little more power, it will want to either skitter to the left, or tip over to the right. It doesn't fly well at ground level, so when you're ready to fly it, you need to give it enough thrust to get it more than a foot in the air. If anything goes wrong, bring it down. Practice in short hops, going up and coming down until you can control it better. After flying, adjust the trim to keep it from going in any direction when the sticks are centered. The better trimmed it is, the easier it will be to fly. Fly at your own risk.
When I first started flying the heli was like a marble in a bowl. It would go down to the left and I'd correct it, and it would go up to the left in a big curve, like it was rolling up a bowl. When it hit the top of the curve, it would come down in the other direction like a marble rolling back down the bowl. I learned to correct the motion so that the top of the curve would come faster, and to level out when it hit the top of the curve so it wouldn't come rolling back down. Little corrections done quickly work better than big corrections done slowly.
Vibration
A common problem with RC helicopters is vibration. Excessive vibration makes hovering more difficult, uses up power, causes "gyro drift" and increases wear and tear. Several things can cause vibration, which makes it difficult to identify its source. Further information on this topic can be found in the Electric Helicopter Beginner's Guide. Below are some of the possible causes:
Unbalanced rotor blades. The blades should be balanced, often done with tape.
Crooked rotor blades. The blades should be at right angles to the flybar.
Rotor blades aren't tracking. They should both travel in the same plane. See Blade Tracking in the EHBG.
Rotor blades too tight. If the blades are too tight, they can't self-adjust from centrifugal force.
Rotor blades are too loose. See the EHBG's Adjusting the blade grip bolts for these two problems.
Main gear missing teeth.
Flybar paddles misaligned. The paddles should be nearly parallel to the swashplate, preferably +5 degrees. See EHBG's Flybar paddle setup.
More information on balancing the blades can be found here.
Make sure the rods from the skids are fully seated and the rubber sleeves snugged up to keep them from shifting. I added a rubber band to mine to keep the skids snug.
http://ehbg.rchomepage.com/ <-- siit ka midagi.
Peab tunnistama, et ega ma siinkohal palju aidata ei saa. See kopter on veidi teistsugune kui minu oma. Kopteri käitumist mõjutavad pisiasjad ja need tuleb enne lendu täpseks timmida. Üldised soovitused ei ole mul paremad kui Kopteriaabitsas kirjas. Kas Kopteriaabitsa oled juba läbi lugenud?
Selge on see, et saba ei tohi pöördelda ega oluliselt liputada. Kui saba pole paigas siis ei saa lennutamisest juttugi olla. Kuna sul juhitakse sabarootorit eraldi mootori pööretega siis tuleb leida koht kus võimalik sabarootori mootori pöördeid reguleerida. Alternatiivina sobib reguleerida sabarootori labade nurka, kui see võimalik on.
Selge on see, et saba ei tohi pöördelda ega oluliselt liputada. Kui saba pole paigas siis ei saa lennutamisest juttugi olla. Kuna sul juhitakse sabarootorit eraldi mootori pööretega siis tuleb leida koht kus võimalik sabarootori mootori pöördeid reguleerida. Alternatiivina sobib reguleerida sabarootori labade nurka, kui see võimalik on.
